The Best Guide for Solo Travel in French Polynesia
- Charlotte Moore
- Feb 7, 2021
- 6 min read
Don’t we all just have a real hankering to get away right now? To an island paradise? Well this week, I’m going to take you on a journey to French Polynesia, and more specifically, the beautiful little island of Mo’orea, which may actually be heaven on earth (and I’m not just bias because we basically share a name).These magnificent islands have been the refuge for explorers, artists and wilderness-seeking adventurers for the last couple of centuries, one of the most famous being Paul Gaugin. But French Polynesia, for those of us in Europe, really is on the other side of the world. So why would we travel so far to this place? Why would we go it alone? Well, buckle up guys, I’ll tell you all you need to know.
So, first of all...
Where the heck is French Polynesia anyway??
French Polynesia is in the middle of the South Pacific and is made up of over 100 different atolls and islands stretching for more than 2,000km. They are best known for their coral-fringed lagoons, reef breaks, jagged mountains and towering waterfalls.
Mo'orea is a 30 minute ferry ride from the capital, Pa'pete in Tahiti, making it fairly easily accessible as you will almost certainly be flying into Tahiti to begin with.
Now, let's get into the good stuff.
Why should I travel solo to Mo’orea, French Polynesia?
Well, it's pretty simple really. Mo’orea is hands down the most beautiful place on earth. Picture this: Enormous, serrated, jungle covered, volcanic peaks that run almost down to the ocean which just happens to be a pristine, crystal clear lagoon, ringed with coral reef to prevent any swell coming in. Endless activities are yours to choose from in this unspoilt nirvana filled with dolphins, sharks, whales and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish that would make the Notre Dame rose window jealous. Do you want in yet? I thought you might. Keep reading.
When is the best time to go to?
I would argue that given the fact that it is a tropical island paradise there is no bad time to go. However, during the months from August to November, you have the opportunity to not only see, but also swim with Humpback Wales. Mo’orea is one of the only places in the world where this is possible and it is probably the most incredible thing you will ever experience .
Is French Polynesia expensive? Why?
As you have seen above, French Polynesia is very very remote. This always means that a place is more expensive as it is harder to get supplies out there. However, there are ways to travel to these islands very cheaply and even for free. Stay tuned for my next blog to find out how. Life out in French Polynesia doesn't have to be expensive. Supermarkets are as cheap as European countries. I found restaurants to be reasonable - just not Thailand prices - accommodation, while not as cheap as India, only set you back about €20 a night for basic dorm style rooms. Excursions can run anywhere from €50 - over €1000 so try and budget for the things that are important to you.
How to get there
When I say it is FAR from anywhere, I mean it’s seriously FAR. My flight from Auckland, New Zealand to Pa’pete took 7 hours and from Tahiti to Los Angeles,its 8 hours. It is not near anywhere, which makes it all the more enticing, don’t you think?
You are more than likely going to have to fly to get there.
Which airlines fly to French Polynesia?
Fly with Air Tahiti, my favourite airline in the world - brand spankin' new Boeing A380 Dreamliner planes with dimmer windows, massive tv screens and huge range of movies, free eye masks, ear plugs, blankets and pillows, delicious food, free alcohol and wonderful staff. Sold.
Arriving in Mo'orea
Be aware that on arrival into the ferry terminal in Mo'orea there will be a couple of taxi's waiting but they will charge you quite a lot of money to get to your destination - upwards of €50 - but this is just something that you will need to factor in to the cost of your travel. There are a couple of buses but they are unreliable and do not run regularly.
Tip: Try share a taxi with another couple/ solo traveler.
Want to do it free? You can always hitch hike.
How do I get around?
On the larger islands like Tahiti, transport is a little easier. But on smaller islands you probably should get yourself a bike or a scooter or even rent a car. However hitch hiking is an extremely common method of getting around - this is how I travelled around- and if you walk down the road with a thumb out in Mo'orea, you’re sure to be picked up in minutes! But as in many tropical islands, don’t expect to get where you are going on time, there could be a few detours on the way! Jut keep your wits about you and all will be well.
The only downside for me was French Polynesia is slightly more regulated than other tropical islands, such as those in the Caribbean for example. The difference here being that French Polynesia is still part of a French Collective, as mentioned above, so European-style rules like wearing a helmet while driving a motor bike and not riding in the trunk of a pick up apply.
How to meet people in French Polynesia?
It might seem pretty daunting, heading out to such a remote place in the hope of finding friends, but it is certainly not impossible. There are a good few places you can go to meet new people and a couple of hacks I can teach you that will make your solo trip feel a lot less lonely. Click here for more.
What is French Polynesian food like?
Fresh, tropical and delicious. The absolute best one to try is similar to civeche (for those of you who have been to South America) - "Poisson cru avec lait du coco" or raw fish with coconut milk. The guys at my guest house used to either go spear fishing, or we would pick up some freshly caught fish from some locals selling their daily catch on the side of the road. We would take it back to the pension and soak the fish in lime juice - citrus actually "cooks" the fish meat. Then you combine it with fresh tomatoes, raw onions and of course, coconut milk, et viola! You have the most delicious, exotic and refreshing Polynesian dish. Who needs a kitchen when you can prepare this at a table overlooking the ocean! Eat with some crusty French baguette from the local boulangerie and wash it down with a crisp bottle of Hinano beer under a galaxy of stars.
Which island is the best
Maybe I’m bias but I think the best all rounder is Mo’orea. It’s totally remote and yet only a 30 minute boat ride from the capital Tahiti. It is the best place to see humpback whales and has the best choice of wildlife excursions. It is reasonably priced and epically beautiful and home to incredible projects such as The Coral Gardeners and Dr. Pool’s wildlife trips.
Where should I stay
The lodgings on Mo’orea range from “pensions” or guest houses to 5 star hotels such as the Sofitel and the Hilton. I would however, advise against staying in these 5 star hotels. Firstly, it’s all couples and families and you will probably end up feeling rather lonely. Secondly, if you are in any way eco-conscious, these places should go to the bottom of your list for the toll they take on the marine environment. There are numerous studies indicating that the water bungalows - the ones that go out into the lagoon on stilts - are seriously damaging to
the coral reef. But you don’t need peer reviewed journals to see that. I went for a quick snorkel around them and saw that their foundations are drilled directly into the reef, and that the surrounding coral is dead and lifeless. Stay in a less invasive beach hut instead! I stayed in Pension Motu Iti while I was there, in a 15 bed dorm and I loved it. I had my own fan, the windows are open to ocean right outside and you free breakfast every morning, dining with the ocean almost lapping at your ankles. There are kayaks which are free to take out too.
Can I live in French Polynesia?
Yes and no. French Polynesia is not going to be as difficult to establish permanent residence as the likes of the USA, but you can’t just dump your bags at a beach hut and call yourself a citizen. If you’re from within the EU , it’s going to be a lot easier for you.
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